Three different causes, and they’re easy to tell apart once you know what to look for.
Fill a glass and let it stand.
If it clears from the bottom up within a minute or two, that’s air. Tiny bubbles coming out of solution, usually after work on a line nearby or after the pump has run dry. Harmless, and it sorts itself out.
If it clears from the top down and leaves grit on the bottom, that’s sediment. Sand, silt or scale travelling through the line.
If it doesn’t clear at all, that’s fine suspended solids, and it needs filtration.
On city water, sediment usually isn’t coming from the plant. It gets picked up in older distribution lines or shaken loose from your own plumbing, and it turns up worst for a day or two after the county works on a main nearby.
On a well, sand is the well itself. Screen, casing or pump depth, and that’s a well contractor’s job before it’s a filtration job.
What Filtration Actually Handles
Sediment filtration is sized by particle size and by how much of it there is.
A spin-down filter handles coarse material and can be flushed without replacing anything, which suits wells carrying fine sand.
Cartridge filters catch finer material but need changing on a schedule, and the interval depends entirely on how much is in the water.
Whole-home sediment filtration goes on the main line before everything else, so it protects the softener and any other equipment downstream.
That’s the part people miss. Sediment reaching a softener wears it out early, so the filter earns its money twice.